Abbreviations and Terms
Knit and Crochet
CC: contrasting color
cdd (centered double decrease): Slip 2 together (as if to k2tog), knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over.
cn: cable needle
dpn: double pointed needles
K tbl: knit throught the back loop(s)
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together
k3tog: knit 3 stitches together
KSP: Knit 1, then slip stitch back to left hand needle, lift 2nd stitch on left hand needle back over returned stitch and replace returned stitch on RH needle (1 stitch decreased).
K2SP: Knit 2 together, then slip stitch back to left hand needle, lift second stitch on left hand needle back over returned stitch and replace returned stitch on right hand needle (2 stitches decreased).
LH: left hand
LT2 (Left Twist): Skip 1 stitch, knit second stitch through back loop, then knit both stitches together through back loop
MC: main color
M1: Pick up horizontal strand between stitch just worked and next stitch from front to back, place on left hand needle, knit this stitch through the back (1 stitch increased).
M1k: Work as for M1.
M1L: Work as for M1.
M1p: Pick up horizontal strand between stitch just worked and next stitch from front to back, place on left hand needle, purl this stitch through the back (1 stitch increased).
M1pL: Work as for M1p.
M1pR: Pick up horizontal strand between stitch just worked and next stitch from back to front, place on left hand needle, purl this stitch through the front (1 stitch increased).
M1R: Pick up horizontal strand between stitch just worked and next stitch from back to front, place on left hand needle, knit this stitch through the front (1 stitch increased).
p tbl: purl throught the back loop(s)
pm: place marker
psso: pass slip stitch over knit stitch
p2sso: pass 2 slip stitches over knit stitch
p2tog: purl 2 stitches together
p3tog: purl 3 stitches together
RH: right hand
RS: right side
RT2 (Right Twist): Knit 2 stitches together, leaving them on the left hand needle, then knit the first stitch again slipping both stitches to the right hand needle.
SKP: slip 1, knit 1, pass slip stitch over
SSK: Slip 2 stitches knitwise, insert point of left hand needle through fronts of these 2 stitches and knit 2 together.
SSP: Slip 2 stitches knitwise, transfer these 2 stitches back to left hand needle, purl 2 together through the back loops.
TBL: through back loop(s)
WS: wrong side
w&t (wrap & turn) or WTS (wrap, turn, slip): a method of concealing a hole created in short row shaping. With yarn held in back, slip stitch to be wrapped purlwise, then bring yarn between needles to the front. Slip that same stitch back to the left needle, then bring the yarn to the back again. Turn your work. Unless otherwise indicated, each time you come to a wrapped stitch when working subsequent rows, slip the wrap back over stitch and onto needle, then work the wrap together with its accompanying stitch.
wyib: with yarn in back
wyif: with yarn in front
yo: yarn over
end on WS: end having just completed a Wrong Side row.
end on RS: end having just completed a Right Side row
STOCKINETTE ST (St st): Knit 1 row, purl 1 row alternately when working on straight needles. The knit side is the right side of work. Knit EVERY round when working in the round on a circular needle. Reverse St st (Rev St st): Purl 1 row, knit 1 row alternately when working on straight needles. The purl side is the right side of the work. Purl EVERY round when working in the round on a circular needle.
GARTER ST: Knit EVERY row when working on straight needles. Knit 1 round, purl 1 round when working on a circular needle.
bphdc (back post half double crochet): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of half double crochet one row below, yarn over, draw up a loop, yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook (this is worked on even # or wrong side rows)
bptr (back post triple): Yarn over twice, insert hook from back to front around post of stitch on previous row and pull up a loop, (yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook) 3 times.
dc: double crochet
fphdc (front post half double crochet): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of half double crochet one row below, yarn over, draw up a loop, yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook (this is worked on odd # or right side rows)
fptr (front post triple): Yarn over twice, insert hook from front to back around post of stitch on previous row and pull up a loop, (yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook) 3 times.
hdc: half double crochet
hdctbl: Half double crochet worked in the back loop
hdctfl: Half double crochet worked in the front loop
sl st: slip stitch
GAUGE: In order to ensure correct finished measurements, accurate stitch and row gauges must be achieved.
TO CHECK GAUGE: Cast on at least 20 stitches, using the yarn and needles specified in the instructions. Work pattern for 3". Bind off all stitches. Using a ruler as a guide, count the number of stitches and rows over 2". (Do not include selvage stitches or cast on and bind off rows) Divide by 2. If this number is MORE than given in the instructions, try a size larger needle and again check your gauge. If the number is LESS than given in the instructions, try a size smaller and check your gauge. The needle size you use does not matter as long as the stitch and row gauge is accurate.
BINDING OFF ACROSS CABLES: To decrease when binding off across the top of a cable, knit 2 together then bind off this stitch - this counts as 2 stitches bound off. This is done to keep the cable from flaring out on the bind-off row and helps keep the shoulders and neck from stretching.
STEAM: Lay the piece Wrong Side down on a padded surface and cover with a pressing cloth. Press lightly with a steam iron. Set iron down carefully, do not drag as this will stretch piece. This method will allow you to manipulate fabric and achieve greater length or width if desired. It will also set stitches and even out stitch quality for a more professional look.
STEAM LIGHTLY: Lay the piece Wrong Side down on a padded surface and move steam iron slowly back and forth 1" above piece. Do not allow iron to touch knitted fabric. Steam will allow knitted fabric to blossom. Selvages and ribbings will lay flat. This method may not allow you to block pieces larger or smaller.
TIPS FOR WORKING WITH LARGE NEEDLES: When working with large needles and gauges, it is very important that you knit a swatch at least 6" square to check both stitch and row gauge, then adjust needle size if necessary. You should also check gauges periodically as you knit as they may vary. With large gauges, even a small discrepancy can make a big difference in the size of your finished garment. When finishing, sew through 1/2 of each edge stitch to keep seams narrow. Seams may be sewn with thinner yarn in a matching color, if desired, for a neater appearance.
Skill Levels for Knitting
EASY: Projects using basic stitches, repetitive stitch patterns, simple color changes, and simple shaping and finishing. Can include items knit back and forth or in the round. Projects named "My First" use knit and purl stitches only and have minimal shaping.
INTERMEDIATE: Projects with a variety of stitches, such as basic cables and lace, simple fair isle, simple intarsia, double-pointed needles and shaping multiple edges at once and with moderate level finishing.
EXPERIENCED: Projects using advanced techniques and stitches, such as short rows, more intricate intarsia, complex cables, complex lace patterns, and numerous color changes.
Skill Levels for Crochet
EASY: Projects using yarn with basic stitches, repetitive stitch patterns, simple color changes, and simple shaping and finishing.
INTERMEDIATE: Projects using a variety of techniques, such as basic lace patterns or color patterns, mid-level shaping and finishing.
EXPERIENCED: Projects with intricate stitch patterns, techniques and dimension, such as non-repeating patterns, multi-color techniques, fine threads, small hooks, detailed shaping and refined finishing.