Learn how to fix a dropped stitch on either the knit or purl side of stockinette.
Hi, this is Amanda from Berroco, and I'll be demonstrating how to fix a dropped stitch. The yarn I'm using for this sample is Berroco Vintage.
Now, I've created a scenario here where I was knitting across this row, and I was ready to knit the next stitch, when suddenly, it fell off my needle and ran a little bit, and now the loop is down here. So now I'll demonstrate how we would fix this and get that loop up where it belongs.
For correcting dropped stitches, my favorite tool to use is a crochet hook. I find these easier and faster than trying to do it with a pair of knitting needles, so I always use a hook, and what I'm going to do is insert my hook from the front to the back through the top stitch, the last stitch that hasn't run yet, so that I have that on there. And now it's not going to run any further because my hook is going to prevent it from doing so. So now that I have that safe, when I look at the strands running behind, I can see four strands, so what I want to do is work each strand one by one, which will count for one of those rows, and get my loop back up to the top. So first, I'm going to grab the lowest stitch, or lowest loop, and I'm going to draw that through the loop on my hook. So that's one row fixed, and I'm going to repeat the same thing, always going for the closest strand to my hook, and draw that through. And it's easy to accidentally miss one of these strands, so keep an eye on that and make sure you don't skip any. And then here's my last one. So now, I can slip this stitch back onto my needle, and everything is ready for me to knit. So that's how to correct a dropped stitch on the knit side.
In this next scenario, I've created a situation where I was purling across this row, and dropped a stitch without realizing it and just kept going. And now, at the end of the row I realize what I did, and now I need to go back and fix it. So what I'm going to have to do is work my way back. I'm just going to slip stitches one by one, so I don't disrupt their orientation on the needle, until I get to the place where the dropped stitch happend. So now, if I look here, I can see that the column of this stitch is running along here, and the column of this stitch ran along here. So it's between these two stitches that I need to bring that stitch up. So I'll slip the last one over, and now I know that I'm in the right spot. The first thing to do is to locate the last intact stitch, the last one that hasn't run. And so that's this one down here, and what I'm going to do is insert my hook into that loop and just kind of yank it around a little bit, so that it will open up and I don't have to worry about it running right now. Because I'm on the purl side of the fabric and I need to work purl stitches all the way up this, I'm going to do it a little differently than I did for the knit side. So what I need to do is locate the first strand of the next row, and move that to the front of my loop, and then I'm going to insert my hook through the loop from the back to the front, and now I'm going to grab that first strand and pull it back through. So I'm going to keep repeating this process, and put my loop in the back and the next strand in front, and then use my hook to draw that strand back through my loop. And up here you can kind of see that these stitches have started to fill in and the gap is smaller, so I can just kind of use my fingers to stretch that strand out a little more so there's more for me to work with when I get up towards the top. Now I'm up to the very last strand, and then I can hang that back on my needle. And now it's corrected.
I tend to be a lot quicker fixing a dropped stitch from the knit side versus the purl side. So even if the purl side happens to be the right side of my fabric, if I have dropped a stitch and I want to fix it quickly, a lot of times what I'll do is just flip it, so that the knit side is facing me, correct the dropped stitch, and flip it back around and continue working with the purl side facing me. That's all there is to it, thanks for watching!
Hi, this is Amanda from Berroco and I’ll be demonstrating Kitchener stitch, which can also be called grafting.
This technique is used to join together two sets of live stitches, meaning stitches that you have on your needle and have not bound off. I’m going to be using Comfort Chunky today for this demonstration, and I have a contrasting color on my needle so that you can see easily how the grafting is working.
When you’re ready to join your two sets of live stitches together, you’ll want to have them positioned on your needles so that the wrong sides of the fabric touching are touching each other - so here you can see the purl side of my stockinette and the purl side of this panel are touching, and then the knit side is on the outside. And you'll want to have the tips of your needles pointing from left to right, like this.
The stitch itself is a repeat of 4 steps. Before you start the actual repeat though, you need to work a couple of set-up steps first:
1. So, the first step is to draw the yarn on your needle through the first stitch on the front needle as if to PURL. So I just put it from right to left as if to purl, then I'm drawing the yarn through. I'm going to leave a 6" tail since I'm using a separate piece of yarn, however you could also cut a long tail from one of your original pieces and use that instead. That was step one.
2. And my second step is to put my needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to KNIT. So I'm going to come through here and go from the left to the right as if to knit, and then draw your yarn through. And you don't want to do it super tight - keep it snug-ish but not really tight.
Now I'm ready to start the 4-step repeat:
1. First, I'm going to run my needle through the first stitch on my front needle as if to KNIT, and slip that stitch off the needle.
2. Next, I'm going to run my needle through the next stitch on the needle as if to PURL, and leave it on the needle. Now I can draw my yarn through and make sure my tails are staying nice.
3. Then, I'm going to run the needle through the first stitch on the back needle as if to PURL, and slip that off the needle.
4. And then run it through the next stitch on as if to KNIT, and leave it on. Then I can draw my yarn back through.
So that was one repeat of the four steps. I'll do it again. My needle goes through the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit, then I slip that off. Then I run it through the next stitch as if to purl and leave it on. Now I go to the back and run my needle through as if to purl, slip it off, put my needle through as if to knit, and leave it on.
Continue repeating these four steps until I have just one stitch left on each of my needles.
I've been working across the row and I've just finished another four-step repeat and now I have one stitch left on each of my needles.
1. So, to finish everything, I'm going to first run my needle through the stitch on the front needle as if to KNIT and slip it off.
2. And then run it through the last stitch on the back needle as if to PURL and slip that one off. Then I'll tighten up my ends there.
And I naturally do my grafting at a tension that's a little bit too loose, so you can see the stitches look a little larger along the graft than they do in other places. So, what I like to do afterwards is run through here and tighten things up. So I notice that these stitches are particularly big and that they run this way, so what I'm going to do is use my needle to kind of pull that extra yarn and even it out across the row.
Now that I've completed evening out my grafting row, everything looks pretty uniform, and it would be especially not noticeable if you were using the same color as your knitting had been. And there's how it looks on the back.
That’s all there is to it! Thanks for watching.