Celsian

Skill Level: 
Intermediate
Project Type: 
Women’s Clothing
Designer: 
Norah Gaughan

Celsian's full skirt is gathered to a fitted bodice which has been knit cuff to cuff. The subtle textural stitch was borrowed from Norah's Men's sweater, Feldspar.

Shown in size Small


Sizes

Directions are for women’s size X-Small. Changes for sizes Small, Medium, Large, 1X and 2X are in parentheses.


Finished Measurements

Bust (closed) – 32(36-40-44-48-52)”

Length – 25½(26-27-27½-28½-29)”


Materials

7(8-9-10-10-12) Balls Berroco Blackstone Tweed (50 grs), #2603 Ancient Mariner (MC) and 3(4-4-5-5-6) balls #2602 Steamers (CC)

Straight knitting needles, size 7 (4.50 mm) OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE

29” Length circular knitting needle, sizes 6 (4.00 mm) and 7 (4.50 mm)

Cable needle (cn)

4 St holders

Tapestry needle


Gauge

19 sts = 4”; 28 rows = 4” in Pat St on larger needles

TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE


Pattern Stitch (Even number of sts)

Rows 1 and 2: With MC, * k1, p1, rep from * across.

Rows 3 and 4: With MC, * p1, k1, rep from * across.

Row 5 (RS): With CC, * k1, p1, rep from * across.

Row 6: With CC, purl.

Row 7: With MC, * p1, k1, rep from * across.

Row 8: With MC, purl.

Rows 9 and 10: With CC, purl.

Row 11: With MC, * k1, p1, rep from * across.

Row 12: With MC, purl.

Row 13: With CC, * p1, k1, rep from * across.

Row 14: With CC, purl.

Row 15: With CC, knit.

Row 16: With CC, purl.

Row 17: With MC, * k1, p1, rep from * across.

Row 18: With MC, purl.

Rows 19 and 20: With MC, * p1, k1, rep from * across.

Rows 21 and 22: With MC, * k1, p1, rep from * across.

Row 23: With MC, knit.

Row 24: With MC, purl.

Row 25: With CC, * p1, k1, rep from * across.

Row 26: With CC, purl.

Rows 27 and 28: With MC, purl.

Rep these 28 rows for Pat St.


Note

Lower sections are worked from bottom to top, then pleated. Left and Right Bodice/Sleeve sections are worked from cuff to center back, then joined. Bound-off edges of lower sections are then sewn to lower edges of Bodice/Sleeve sections.


Lower Back Section

With larger circular needle, using MC, cast on 108(118-128-136-146-156) sts. DO NOT join. Work back and forth in Pat St for 15(15-15½-15½-16-16)”, end on WS.

Pleating Row (RS): With MC, k14(19-24-28-33-38), * sl 4 sts to cn and hold in FRONT, (insert point of RH needle through first st on cn and first st on LH needle and k these 2 sts tog) 4 times; sl 4 sts to cn and hold in BACK, (insert point of RH needle through first st on RH needle and first st on cn and k these 2 sts tog) 4 times, * k4, rep between *’s once more, k8, rep between *’s once more, k4, rep between *’s once more, k to end – 76(86-96-104-114-124) sts. Bind off purlwise.


Left Front Lower Section

With straight needles, using MC, cast on 60(64-70-74-80-84) sts. Work even in Pat St for 15(15-15½-15½-16-16)”, end on WS. Make a note of the Pat St row you ended on.

Pleating Row (RS): With MC, k10(14-20-24-30-34), * sl 4 sts to cn and hold in FRONT, (insert point of RH needle through first st on cn and first st on LH needle and k these 2 sts tog) 4 times; sl 4 sts to cn and hold in BACK, (insert point of RH needle through first st on RH needle and first st on cn and k these 2 sts tog) 4 times, * k4, rep between *’s once more, k2, sl remaining sts to holder for frontband. Bind off remaining 32(36-42-46-52-56) sts purlwise.


Lower Right Front Section

Work same as lower left front section for 15(15-15½-15½-16-16)”, end on RS.

Next Row (WS): Work to the last 12 sts, then sl these sts to holder for frontband. Make a note of the Pat St row you ended with.

Pleating Row (RS): K2, * sl 4 sts to cn and hold in FRONT, (insert point of RH needle through first st on cn and first st on LH needle and k these 2 sts tog) 4 times; sl 4 sts to cn and hold in BACK, (insert point of RH needle through first st on RH needle and first st on cn and k these 2 sts tog) 4 times, * k4, rep between *’s once more, k to end. Bind off remaining 32(36-42-46-52-56) sts purlwise.


Left Bodice/Sleeve Section

With straight needles, cast on 44 sts. Work even in Pat St for 2(2-2-2-2-1½)”, end on WS.

Inc Row (RS): Work 1, M1, work to last st, M1, work 1 – 46 sts. Rep this inc every 2(1½-1¼-¾-¾-¾)” 6(8-10-13-15-17) times more – 58(62-66-72-76-80) sts. Work even if necessary until sleeve measures 14½” from beg, end on WS.

Shape Bodice: Cast on 2 sts at beg of the next 4 rows, 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, 4 sts at beg of the next 4 rows, then 6 sts at beg of the next 2 rows – 100(104-108-114-118-122) sts. Mark beg and end of last row. Work even until piece measures 4½( 5½-6½-7½-8½-9½)” above markers, end on WS. Make a note of Pat St row you ended with.

Divide for Back and Front: Next Row (RS): Work 50(52-54-57-59-61) sts, then sl remaining 50(52-54-57-59-61) sts onto holder for front.

Back: Work 1 row even.

Shape Neck: Dec Row (RS): Work to last 3 sts, SSK, k1 – 49(51-53-56-58-60) sts. Rep this dec every RS row 4 times more – 45(47-49-52-54-56) sts. Work even until piece measures 8(9-10-11-12-13)” above markers, end on WS. Sl all sts to second holder.

Front: With RS facing, sl 50(52-54-57-59-61) sts from first holder to straight needle. Join yarn and bind off 7 sts, work in Pat St as established to end – 43(45-47-50-52-54) sts. Bind off 7 sts at beg of the next 5 RS rows, end on WS. Bind off remaining 8(10-12-15-17-19) sts.


Right Bodice/Sleeve Section

Work same as left Bodice/Sleeve section until bodice measures 4½(5½-6½-7½-8½-9½)” above markers, end on WS. Make a note of Pat St row you ended with.

Divide for Back and Front: Next Row (RS): Work 50(52-54-57-59-61) sts, then sl remaining 50(52-54-57-59-61) sts to holder for back.

Front: Bind off 7 sts, work to end – 43(45-47-50-52-54) sts. Bind off 7 sts at beg of the next 5 WS rows, end on RS. Bind off remaining 8(10-12-15-17-19) sts.

Back: With RS facing, sl 50(52-54-57-59-61) sts from holder to straight needle. Join yarn.

Shape Neck: Dec Row (RS): K1, k2 tog, work in pat as established to end. Rep this dec every RS row 4 times more – 45(47-49-52-54-56) sts. Work even until piece measures 8(9-10-11-12-13)” above marker, end on WS. Leave sts on straight needle. Break off yarn leaving a 24” long end.


Finishing

With WS facing, sl 45(47-49-52-54-56) sts from Left Bodice/Sleeve section to the other straight needle. Holding the 2 needles parallel, thread free end into tapestry needle and weave sts from both sts together using Kitchener St. Note: Sts may be joined using 3-needle bind-off if desired. This will leave a center ridge down back. Sew bound-off edges of Lower Sections to lower edges of Bodice/Sleeve sections. Sew side and sleeve seams.

Left Front/Neckband: With RS facing, sl 12 sts from left holder to straight needles. Work even in pat as established until band, when slightly stretched, reaches along front neck edge to center back neck edge, end on WS. Sl sts to holder.

Right Front/Neckband: Work same as left front/neckband. Join edges of neckbands in same manner as Bodice/Sleeve sections.